“I entered jewellery because I came from fashion, but I could have been making chairs or other objects. My pieces are not merely earrings, rings, bracelets or necklaces; they are objects that appear beautifully on the body but also as standalone designs,” muses Chesnais from her 1st Arrondisement studio in Paris.
The designer is fascinated by the topology of the body and that manifests in everything from her display cases, to the ceramic nipple platters that safe keep one of sensual pouty Lip rings or an undulating Wave bracelet on dressing tables. She ensures each piece is contoured to the body and tests pieces out on her bike ride to work ensuring the fit is secure.
“I like to set the jewellery-object against the contours of the body — with lines that are fluid, dynamic, sharp and disciplined. I work against an established aesthetic, instead developing my own family of archetypes over time,” she says of the brand which she set up in 2015. Her pedigree is impressive having worked for Nicholas Ghesquiere at Balenciaga developing the accessories line and the signature stackable cuffs and multi band rings.
Surma Ring
@charlottechesnais // Instagram
She now has two boutiques in Paris on the Left and Right Bank attracting a slew of collectors and fans who are attracted to the multiple ways pieces can be worn and even combine looping into other pieces. She created the Binary Collection line with Ben Gorham from BYREDO featuring a beautiful chain link that takes the shape of soldered and polished bracelets, rings and necklaces, each unique and hand dipped/polished in gold. Initially these pieces are designed using the cire perdue technique before being galvanised with a 5 micron thick layer of silver/18 ct. gold which nicely patinas with age. With renowned French graphic agency M/M she conceived of Alphajewel letter pendants and cuff earrings that invite you to wear your swirling initials on the body like talismans. With longevity in mind, she offers a ‘spa’ where you can have pieces restored, replated and polished.
This Summer sees the release of the Wave collection, which includes the standout Ivy wrap-around bracelet in half silver and gold that loops through the thumb and around the wrist. Take it up a notch and high jewellery features her curvilinear designs set with scintillating sapphires and diamonds. “Jewellery, I believe, sits on the boundary of the fashion and art worlds. And that’s what makes it magical,” says Chesnais.
